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Naomijane

Vintage Pattern Collection

Last year I sewed too much. I averaged a garment a week, which consequently overwhelmed my wardrobe and frazzled my brain. So this year I decided to calm down, limit my makes and take my time. I ordered six vintage patterns from The Vintage Pattern Shop (they offer bulk buy deals), and I set myself the challenge of spreading these patterns across the year.

I numbered the patterns and use a dice to decide which one I'll make next. So far I've made a 1939 evening gown (from secondhand bedsheets), a WW2 siren suite (using fabric from Boyes - a wonderful northern shop), and a 1940s afternoon dress (fabric again from Boyes, £3 a metre).

Which sounds like I'm half way done when it's only April! But with variations within each pattern I could technically make 12 different garments, which should see me through the year (she says, eying the half made 1950s Babette boiler suit she began on a whim this morning...)...

· 3 weeks ago
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SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Wow - yes I can image a garment a week would be a bit overwhelming - but how wonderful to be so absorbed in your hobby

I love the gamification of choosing which pattern to make next, and these are all so beautiful! the back of that lilac checkerboard dress is stunning!! As is the front actually!

· 3 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you! My dad commented that the front of the lilac dress looks like some kind of bust extension device! (Can always rely on my dad for an honest opinion). The back is much more elegantly designed than the front I think.

· 3 weeks ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

Ooooh!!! These are brilliant!🤩

· 3 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you so much!

· 3 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

I've nearly finished the Babette boiler suit, which just needs a front zip. I'm still learning how to insert zips, and actually find it easier to hand sew them neatly than battle with my machine. This make wasn't in my plan for the year, but I had so much material left over from my 40's dress that I couldn't resist knocking something else up. I'd made it before but my first version looks like janitors overalls!

Having once again rolled a dice, fate has decreed I shall make another 1940's dress. Similar in look to my previous dress but different in construction, this one has lapped seams, a technique I only know about through reconstructing an American regency era gown. As this essentially means the seams will be top-stitched I think I'll make the whole dress using my oldest machine. The old girl is by far the most reliable for neatness and straight lines!

· 2 weeks ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Ooh these all look so good!! I would love those boiler suits for working in the garden! How were they to make?

That 1940s dress is going to be stunning, it's such a classic style. What is the fabric you're going to use?

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you! They were pretty simple to make. The pocket construction was a little unusual, but perfectly achievable by blindly following the instructions and not over thinking!

The dress fabric I'll be using is a wine-coloured poly-cotton from Boyes, although I'll be using the left overs from my siren suit to make the toile first.

· 2 weeks ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

I always love the illustrations on vintage sewing patterns - just so classic!

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

So I've made up the toile of my next 40s dress...but I'm not sure what I think of it. I've manged to size it correctly for myself, but there's something about the triangle piece beneath the bust that is jarring. I think my mind automatically expects it to curve in line with the shape of the bust, whereas it's sort of just slapped on the front irregardless of shape. A lot of 40s dresses use this triangle element but I think they are normally smaller and more subtle.

I'm wondering whether to adjust it to suit how I think it should look, or just make it as per the design to keep it authentic..?

· 2 weeks ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

The bodice is really similar to the Sew Love Patterns Springe Jumpsuit, that does have a slight curve on it but only just.

I wonder whether it would look different depending on bust size as a bigger bust would affect the amount of that the triangle is visible?

I think it’s really interesting, it’s a dress that would fit perfectly into ‘Goodnight Mister Tom’,,, I love that this has made me really think 😊

· 2 weeks ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

The triangle on the jumpsuit wraps around the bodice So that adds to the curve I think 🤔

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

(Aww Goodnight Mister Tom! I remember watching that at primary school, although I found it much more meaningful and emotional to watch as an adult!)

I think you're right that it might look different with a larger bust size. As I can't change my own, erm.. measurements (haha) I'm going to see if I can adapt the shape to make it right. I'll try shrinking the triangle by an inch and extending the front down by an inch and see how that looks....

· 2 weeks ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Oh Goodnight Mister Tom is one of my absolute favourites!! I cry just thinking about it.

This looks lovely, and it's definitely a feature that was very prominent on dresses of that time, but I agree this one is particularly bold! The top of the triangle comes up quite high, almost above the bust. I would be tempted to reduce the height of it, so that the top hits more around where your bra band would. You can then always stitch the centre front together so as not to expose yourself.

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

This is my attempt at reducing the height of the triangle piece...I think it looks a bit more proportionate now.

However, because I extended the front piece to reach the smaller triangle it is now a bit too wide on the lower sides. I've tried to remedy this by overlapping the triangle to take in the excess...

The centre front is deceptive, as it's already stitched together for modesty but I suppose designed to look like it's only held together at the top of the triangle.

This dress is such a learning curve for me - I'm used to doing slight adjustments for sizing but I've not tackled reworking a pattern to suit my own judgement before. But I'm determined to make it work or at least learn something from it!

· 2 weeks ago
Glenda H's avatar
Glenda H Community Member

That looks much better. More in proportion. Well done for tackling this.

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you!

· 2 weeks ago
LaTrica's avatar
LaTrica

I agree. I like this proportion better, but I'm prejudiced because I also do not like underbust seams that do not appear to be under the bust.

· 1 week ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

I agree, if the seams are in the wrong place it can make the wearer look like they're wearing clothes too big or too little for them.

I was hesitant to adjust it at first out of a desire to stay true to the original design, but then I remembered that women in the 1940s would also have tweeked patterns to suit their own preferences.

· 1 week ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

That does look a lot more in proportion now, fab job!

· 2 weeks ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you!

· 2 weeks ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

Yes that’s looks perfect

· 1 week ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you - now on to the real thing!

· 1 week ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

I have nearly completed this dress, with just the zip to source and insert, the hem to hem, and the belt to finish.

I attempted the three quarter length sleeves which have a gathered detail I've not tried before. Instructions from the 1930s are vague at best, so I felt like I was winging it! Can anyone interpret this, or tell me if I got it right;

"With continuous lap -- Hem bottom of sleeve; then sew lap to opening. Fasten with snaps."

I went by the diagram more than the instructions!

As for the main dress, I'm a little underwhelmed by how it's turned out. I don't know if it's the colour, the lack of pattern (I love a floral), or the 80's vibe it's giving off...

· 5 days ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

I think this looks beautiful!! You’ve done a stunning job of it and with the right styling would definitely look more 40s than 80s!

As for the sleeve hem… I’m pretty clueless with those instructions but what you’ve done looks great

· 4 days ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you! My sister suggested the same thing - accessorise to get the right look!

· 4 days ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

Don’t know if this will help https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/25206 really good reply there from Lisa Laree!

There’s also this about lap plackets on a sleeve

· 4 days ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thanks Donnie that video was great! I do love a clear youtube tutorial, and I'll be rewatching that next time this technique is needed. (It seems I got most of it right but started on the wrong side and also went a bit too wide on the lap.)

· 4 days ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

I think this is gorgeous! I absolutely love the colour!

· 3 days ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you! I'm in two minds about it as I'm not a fan of purple, but I guess it works. (It looks a richer purple in the photo because of the filter I used to correct the colour).

· 3 days ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

I went off plan again and made a 1950s dress (from Butterick, B6889).

I'd made the toile just over a year ago but never bothered to make it properly. As I had plenty of fabric left from the previous dress I thought I'd give it a go.

It's funny, I corrected a couple of mistakes made at the toile stage, but managed to make some new ones too! The hem is badly misaligned, the top stitching is wobbly (I blame my modern machine, I really do), and there's a raw bit of material under the arm hole that I couldn't turn in or disguise. And somehow the colour looks dull compared to the other dress (I use filters on my photos to match what I'm seeing, otherwise this material photographs very red). But never mind, mistakes are lessons, and it's a perfectly wearable garment.

My next on plan dress will be a 1977 maxi dress...

· 4 days ago
Victoria's avatar
Victoria Plus Member

I’ve really enjoyed looking through this thread, your vintage makes are stunning. I love the boiler suit in that rush colour and I think your 40’s wine coloured dress is stunning. Would look amazing with a bold lip and victory rolls!

· 4 days ago
Naomijane's avatar
Naomijane

Thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it! I'm enjoying writing about my projects - sharing what I make is a new experience for me.

Oh if only I could figure out victory rolls! They've always been beyond my hair skill set..

· 3 days ago

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