Trousers! Help! 😱🙄

As a curvy individual I struggle making trousers, now don't get me wrong I'm not making jeans or anything close fitting (let's be serious I want to be comfortable!). I have 2 questions I'm hoping you wonderful people might be able to help me with!

1) if I make trousers with a zip fly do I use my hip measurement to chose the size to get them to fit? I have a big different between my waist and hips so I need to make sure they go over my butt but fit my waist. Does a zip fly style easily allow this? (I hope that makes some kind of sense!)

 2) what is this drag line from waist to thigh, and how do I fix it? It's not exactly coming from the crotch but more thigh area (these are RTW but demonstrate the issue I have really well) 

Hi Jasmin, I don't have lots of experience or knowledge with trouser fitting, but wondering if you've tried these resources:

https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/

https://blog.cashmerette.com/2022/10/how-to-sew-pants-that-fit.html

https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2020/05/common-trouser-fitting-adjustments.html

Hi Jasmin, sorry I didn't see this post earlier,

I also have a big difference between waist and hips, I've only made one pair of trousers with a fly zip, I used my hip measurement and graded a few sizes to my waist. I usually have to grade by about 4 sizes so I definitely recommend making a toile without any pockets or anything like that. 

As for the drag lines in the shorts - it's hard to tell, a lot of the time it could be a number of things, but it could be that the crotch is too short on these. Tamlyn has given some really good resources, I love the Closet Core tips particularly 

Thank you Tamlyn and Hayley. I'm going to spend the weekend, trying to get this right!

I'm desperate for trousers in pink fabric from the February classic! 😍😍😍

Let us know how it goes and use this space if you need any help along the way!