Help With A Fabric

Hello, I've got this light jersey in my stash and want to use it for a Turner dress from Cashmerette.
Since yesterday, I'm trying to lay it flat for cutting but I can't achieve it.

I've looked at one edge and the print is right. The same graphic is at the same distance from the edge.
I then have traced a line following the design and recut the fabric to be able to aligne it correctly. I've pined the edges and I can't get the fold flat more than this little part, as you can see on the picture.
I've placed pins (shown by the three blue arrows) to follow the print.

What should I do ? Unpin the edges and align the fold on the print ? What should you do ? I don't have enough place to unfold the fabric and cut it.

Thanks by advance

· 4 weeks ago

You must have an account to comment or reply on threads - please log in or join the community.

Sort replies by:

SewHayleyJane · 4 weeks ago Admin

As the print is so small are you hoping to pattern match? As the pattern is printed on it can happen sometimes that the print won't be 100% on grain all the way along.

If I were you I'd concentrate more on ensuring a smooth fold than getting the print to be on grain. It's such a small print that I doubt it will show up much. So you just want to pick up the top layer of fabric and shift is slightly to the right or left until the fold lays flat

· 4 weeks ago

Ariane_et_le_fil · 3 weeks ago Community Member

I won't try to pattern match. I will unpin the edges and see if I can get a flat fold. It was the first thing I tried but that means losing almost 1m of fabric. .

· 3 weeks ago

Helen · 4 weeks ago Plus Member

I know that Cashmerette recommends cutting a single layer of fabric and not double, that might be easier to get a smooth laying fabric.

I have put a chair or two beside by sewing table and let the excess fabric sit on the chair so that it is not pulling before (but that was with woven fabric not knitt)

· 4 weeks ago

Ariane_et_le_fil · 3 weeks ago Community Member

Yes, I'm afraid the knit will distort more. But I keep the good advice for woven. Thank you.

· 3 weeks ago

DonnieH · 3 weeks ago Plus Member

I roll difficult fabric along the length so I can use my cutting table for a single layer. I use lots of pins to secure pattern pieces and roll the other side once it has pattern and pins in place so I can unroll the unused fabric. it looks a little like an old fashioned scroll! Once I have all of the pieces accounted for I then unroll to cut. I'll trace out pattern pieces that need multiple pieces so I haven't got to unpin and cut again. I just have to be careful that the traced versions are placed face down so I get the mirror image.

Is it a faff? Yes! But I found it a lot less stressful than trying to tame two layers of fabric! Even less stressful is avoiding viscose jersey or lightweight slippery viscose, whenever possible...but sometimes nothing else will do!

Finally don't be too hard on yourself because this type of fabric will 'drop' and change shape once it is sewn which can undo all of your painstaking attempts to align things.

I hope that helps a little bit.

· 3 weeks ago