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Maximum

Cross Grain

First post so hope I don’t break any rules.

I bought some linen viscose to make wide leg trousers but the shrinkage was so bad that I cannot fit the pattern pieces on with the grainline parallel to the selvedge. As it’s a woven can I get away with grainline at 90° to the selvedge? Lining up with the weft rather than the warp. Do I risk it or just chicken out and make shorts and have a lot of wastage?

Not used linen viscose before. It feels lovely but aside from excessive shrinkage at 30° wash it bled so much colour that the colour catcher was darker than the fabric! Is it the linen content or the viscose causing these issues?

Thx in advance for any ideas on the way forward

· 2 weeks ago
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DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

I'll be interested to see what others have to say about this but first, I'm so sorry you've had this experience. It's so disappointing when you have plans to then have them thwarted. Thank goodness you did the pre-wash! I've recently prepared several lengths of viscose linen sourced from Jenny Stitches and definitely didn't experience any colour run and the 'tightening' of the fabric, which seemed like shinkage, loosened up when it was ironed so I'm back to where I started with size. None of that is of any help to you. Sorry.

· 2 weeks ago
Maximum's avatar
Maximum

Thx for replying! Mine also came from Jenny Stitches and colour run might well have been the particular dark teal dye. It’s been ironed and feels soft and relaxed with plenty of drape.

I’m just not sure about aligning with the weft. “The sewing rules” always say align with grain and parallel with selvedge

· 2 weeks ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

I often cut sleeves on the cross grain as a way of being frugal with fabric. So far the sky hasn't fallen. I don't think you have anything to lose by giving it a go!

· 2 weeks ago
AnnieRose's avatar
AnnieRose

Hello, just thought I'd add a couple of thoughts (hope it's not too late!)

  1. It is rare to get fabric that shrinks and runs so much, unless it is from an unusual source. I would definitely do another wash - you don't want to make something and find it shrinks again. If it does, I would speak to the supplier to ask if anyone else has experienced this.

  2. Assuming it is now shrunk and is OK to use, then I would say you can definitely cut at 90 degrees. I did this with some lovely ikat that came from India and was only 85cms wide. I wanted to make some 'wrap around' trousers that needed a lot of width. I also wanted the 'stripes' to run vertically, and they ran horizontally on the fabric. I made 2 pairs of trousers and they are great. They are quite a 'forgiving' pattern in fairness.

  3. I would also consider whether you can simply put it aside for another project. It sounds to me as if it would make a nice panelled skirt, if you like the thought of such a thing.

    Good luck!

· 2 weeks ago
Maximum's avatar
Maximum

Not too late and yes, a good idea to wash again - thank you!

· 2 weeks ago
Maximum's avatar
Maximum

2nd wash was definitely needed!

Why do fabric stores not stock or mention colour catchers?

· 2 weeks ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Oh gosh I’m sorry to hear that happened, that’s such a pain!

I would say go for it, cut on the cross grain. If it will get wasted anyway by making shorts you might as well. I believe it’s completely fine to do that, obviously if you haven’t got a directional print.

· 2 weeks ago
Maximum's avatar
Maximum

Thanks everyone. I will go ahead!

I do tend to over think things and then dither. I really do need to “just get on with it”.

· 2 weeks ago
AnnieRose's avatar
AnnieRose

Good luck, and please let us know how it turns out

· 2 weeks ago
AnnieRose's avatar
AnnieRose

Maximum - I think we may have met at one of Michelle Pye's courses. I remember you, the reason for your username and the town where you lived then (about 10 years ago I think) as I had a strong connection to it; but don't want to post details you may not want in the open! My name is actually Jacky and my username comes from a family nickname that I used when I signed up to the first Sewing Forum many many years ago. I should have dropped it by now, buit habits die hard!

· 2 weeks ago
Maximum's avatar
Maximum

You have a good memory and yes it’s me! Still living in the same place as well!

· 2 weeks ago
AnnieRose's avatar
AnnieRose

Hope you're well? I do get down there every so often to see old friends. I do miss Michelle, and I hope she is enjoying her retirement.

Better not hijack this thread any more, but glad to make the connection again.

· 2 weeks ago

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