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DonnieH Plus Member

A Little Diary Thread Because I'm At The Age Where I Forget!

Hi everyone

To dispel the Sunday evening blues I have been cutting out and getting projects ready so I can just sit down and sew in the odd half hours I can make during the week. I'm hoping this will make life more balanced than it often is...

I'm trying some Seamwork patterns. I've previously adapted and made a couple up for my aged and ailing mother, but haven't yet tried any for myself. Until now at least! They draft for 5' 8" and I am barely 5' 2" so there have been some adjustments needed.

It's been a chance to reflect on the last year, when I finally started making time to sew regularly and to try dressmaking instead of just making curtains and cushion covers. When I started, my idea of 'fit' was simply being able to button things up (without having cleavage gape on shirts).

Today I found myself looking at the different pattern charts figuring out grading, whether FBAs would be required, making pattern adjustments for crotch depth on a trouser pattern and shortening everything by 4 inches or more as appropriate. 

A year ago I didn't know about any of that! Most of it I have picked up through trial and error ( a lot of the latter) and YouTube tutorials, but it feels ridiculously pleasing to now be able to simply recognise what needs altering and then do it. 

A year of experience has also seen me today cut out a popover top, that claimed to need 1.8m of fabric, from a Lamazi sale remnant that was only 1.4m. I feel 'naughty' for not following layout plans and carving my own path and a little smug that I've saved money by doing that!!

My current biggest challenge is fabric choice. I'm still getting that wrong, more often than is ideal. I do follow pattern guidance re fabric type and weight, but I'm not always thrilled with the outcome! When I have some photos I will add to my little diary thread an update about the Osgood skirt... it's a good example of this!

The other issue with fabric is that what I love on the bolt is not something I love on me! I'm ok with colours, but patterns and designs are a challenge for me. How can you love something so much until you wear it? :-). Last year I hankered after some fabric I had seen, finally got some, made it into a shirt dress and I honestly swear that it looked as if I was wearing my sofa. Nothing wrong with the pattern or the make. I'd just bought a pattern that so resembled my aged sofa I disappeared when I sat on it!!! You have to laugh!

Hoping everyone has a good week. We have gotten through January, the days are getting noticeably longer which bodes well and helps to lift spirits. The snowdrops are out and there's a lot to be grateful for!

· 1 month ago
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SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Hi Donnie

Absolutely loved reading your diary entry! It sounds like you have learnt so much over the last year, which is so fantastic! It's really wonderful to get that "ah-ha" moment when things start clicking into place around fitting adjustments and what needs to be altered.

Learning what kind of fabrics you enjoy wearing and how they differ to fabrics you appreciate looking at and sewing with is actually a really big hurdle for a lot of new sewers. A lot of us are really drawn to big, bold, colourful patterns and prints like you might be drawn to art that you'd hang on the wall. But they actually don't fit into your lifestyle and wearing them feels completely different.

Having sewn as a dressmaker for over a decade I can tell you that I've only recently learnt that I prefer wearing a more muted colour palatte of soft blues and dusky pinks and have become a lot more particular in the type of prints I wear. Whilst I can appreciate a bold and colourful floral print and have a lot of fun sewing it... they aren't the garments I typically reach for to actually wear! It has been an interesting journey! 

· 1 month ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

Huge comfort in knowing it's not just me!! Thank you for taking the time to read and reply. 

· 1 month ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

On the subject of fabric choices, I bought this a few years ago because I loved it. I bought quite a lot of it as I had no idea how much fabric items needed. It's very loose weave and it unravels at the slightest touch. With a few months of sewing under my belt I began to have an understanding of the problems I was going to face when I came to use the fabric and I decided it would have to wait! However, the need to make some space meant January was the month when I tackled it.

I decided a complex pfabric needed a very simple pattern. I was going to try making the Seamwork Ivy jacket (a simple, thigh length boxy unlined jacket with a detachable scarf) but then I found the Itch to Stitch Koersel cape pattern. I confess that I didn't give too much consideration as to whether or not I would actually wear a cape at that stage, I was simply on a mission to see if I could make anything.

C.L. Hardie (The Thrifty Stitcher)suggested using a K10 fusible interfacing and I block fused each of the pattern pieces as soon as I cut them out. You'll perhaps see that I used oversize pieces as I was minded to wrap a 1cm overlap around to the right side to strengthen the seam edges. 

I bought some cotton poplin to make a lining. The pattern was an unlined cape, but with the block interfacing I felt it needed a prettier inside. 

It isn't quite finished. I also extended the length of the cape thinking it might be more 'me' but now I'm not sure!

I'm not going to risk button holes so have found some duffel coat fasteners to use instead.

For now it is sitting on the tailor's dummy whilst I think. I don't want to stitch 9 metres of binding if I am going to be shortening it!

Will I ever wear it? I go back to the comment in my first post, I still love the fabric but am not sure I love it on me! However, I am proud that I have made something without it unravelling and falling to pieces. At least not yet. I think it could be quite cheerful on a grey winter's day provided it is dry - I'm not a fan of the smell of wet wool!

· 1 month ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Oh wow I can see how this fabric would have been tricky to sew with - where did you get it from? You've done a lovely job on the cape, and I really like the fastening, it works perfectly!

· 1 month ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

Thank you! Fabworks Online - they do a lot of wools, and uniform weight type twills and gabardines.

· 1 month ago
LaTrica's avatar
LaTrica

Can you wear it a little in it's current form to see how you feel about the length?  That should let you know if it's awkward.

· 1 month ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

This is a great idea! I finished tacking the binding and wore it today and I love it! Thank you! Now to finish it properly! 

· 1 month ago
DonnieH's avatar
DonnieH Plus Member

My few days off work are coming to a close but I've finished 2 knit garments. The colourful Lenny dress is a Seameork pattern and incredibly straightforward provided you read the pattern properly and use the correct seam allowance. I graded the pattern 3 times, some smaller, some bigger. I love this fabric but wondered if I'd like it when worn. I'm not generally a leopard print type of person! But I think for brightening up grey days it is perfect.

The second project is the True Bias Bryn cardigan. I thought I'd wear it as a dress as that meant I didn't have to do buttonholes. I have a very basic sewing machine and whilst it will do buttonholes, it gets really stroppy if things are not smooth, stable, flat and thin!!!! It occurred to me that I could perhaps attach the band in a different way to minimise the usual bulk and, it worked! I even managed 12 button holes! I had to make an adjustment to the back after construction. I don't know if the fabric stretched out slightly or if I was just clumsy with the band . For the full length version there's a centre back seam, so it was relatively easy! 

Now need to find the part of me that knows what needs to be done at work!!! I've managed to switch off completely and just sew for a few days.  It has been wonderful. 

· 1 month ago
Adele's avatar
Adele Community Member

Really nice thread to read through 😊 I quite like picking a project to just see if I can do it as well.

· 1 month ago
SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Both of these look really lovely Donnie, glad to hear you've enjoyed a couple of days sewing! 

· 1 month ago

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