Advice Needed- Grading Sizes

Hi lovely people

Im wanting to make the nina lee park Lane dress.

Just about to cut the paper pattern and do my usual grading. Im smaller Bust and waist and wider at the hips. So normally grade small to large.

The park Lane bodice pieces finish waist/just under Bust and then its the skirt pieces.

I want to grade from a 12 Bust to 14 waist/hips.

Looking at my bodice pieces, the front is a simple blend and im confident to do that change. However the back bodice piece from arm hole area to waist line goes inwards. And im not sure how to grade that. As im drawing a line outwards, which i know is my aim. But not sure if that would alter the shape.

I will put a picture in so you can see.

Second thing, im tall and have to lengthen every thing i make. Do i lengthen then grade, or grade then lengthen?

I am going to make a toile to be sure but would really appreciate some advice on this.

Thank you in advance. X

· 1 month ago

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SewHayleyJane · 1 month ago Admin

Hi Amy,

You would do exactly the same on the back - draw a line connecting the size 12 at the bust to a 14 at the waist - it will still be going inwards as you're only blending between the two sizes so won't alter the shape.

Personally I would lengthen first and then grade as you would have to true up the side seams after lengthening anyway so you can do that in the grading step.

· 1 month ago

Glenda H · 1 month ago Community Member

Lengthen first and grade afterwards would be my advice.

When you have graded the front and back put the two pattern pieces together to make sure they follow the same line. Just adapt any inconsistencies to make a smooth line.

· 1 month ago

Thimble_Amy · 1 month ago Plus Member

Thank you Glenda & Hayley

i think i stared at it for 20 mins, i thought it would work but couldn't get my head around the line going in the opposite direction. but it does make sense.

Also, makes sense to lengthen first too.

still new in this sewing garment world and loving the learning. i will be making a toile, as not only will i be checking the fit but it will be the first time attempting an invisible zip.

thank you again

Happy sewing. xx

· 1 month ago