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Thimble_Amy Plus Member

Advice Needed- Grading Sizes

Hi lovely people

Im wanting to make the nina lee park Lane dress.

Just about to cut the paper pattern and do my usual grading. Im smaller Bust and waist and wider at the hips. So normally grade small to large.

The park Lane bodice pieces finish waist/just under Bust and then its the skirt pieces.

I want to grade from a 12 Bust to 14 waist/hips.

Looking at my bodice pieces, the front is a simple blend and im confident to do that change. However the back bodice piece from arm hole area to waist line goes inwards. And im not sure how to grade that. As im drawing a line outwards, which i know is my aim. But not sure if that would alter the shape.

I will put a picture in so you can see.

Second thing, im tall and have to lengthen every thing i make. Do i lengthen then grade, or grade then lengthen?

I am going to make a toile to be sure but would really appreciate some advice on this.

Thank you in advance. X

· 1 day ago
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SewHayleyJane's avatar
SewHayleyJane Admin

Hi Amy,

You would do exactly the same on the back - draw a line connecting the size 12 at the bust to a 14 at the waist - it will still be going inwards as you're only blending between the two sizes so won't alter the shape.

Personally I would lengthen first and then grade as you would have to true up the side seams after lengthening anyway so you can do that in the grading step.

· 16 hours ago
Glenda H's avatar
Glenda H Community Member

Lengthen first and grade afterwards would be my advice.

When you have graded the front and back put the two pattern pieces together to make sure they follow the same line. Just adapt any inconsistencies to make a smooth line.

· 14 hours ago

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